The world’s most important mountaineer in Cluj-Napoca

On the 29th of October world-famous alpinist, Denis Urubko visited Cluj-Napoca and I was also present at the event. In our video on this topic, I make a summary of the main ideas that were discussed and you can also see footage from this year’s rescue mission on Nanga Parbat and Urubko’s attempt to climb K2 solo in the winter. You can also see how he trains to climb those big peaks, what questions was he asked in the Q&A session and what his answers were.

 If you prefer you can read this article in Romanian and Hungarian as well by using the links on the right side.

The event was organized by the Adeona Group which exist since 2015. The event took place in cinema Florin Piersic (729 places) which is the biggest cinema in Cluj-Napoca.

Who were the other speakers?

Adrian Opre, the dean of the psychology faculty spoke about motivation and performance from a theoretical point of view.

Dan Ștefan, the co-founder of out of “Autonom” rent-a-car, voted four times the best employer in Romania by Best Employer Study.

Who is Denis Urubko?

  • He is considered by many to be the greatest active Himalayan alpinist.
  • He was the 15th person to climb all 8000 m peaks and the 8th to do so without supplementary oxygen.
  • He finished the “Snow Leopard” project (climbing the five peaks above 7000 m from the territory of the former Soviet Union) in just 42 days in 1999.
  • He opened new routes on Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Ushba and the south face of Broad Peak together with Sergei Samoilov.
  • He made winter ascents on Makalu and Gasherbrum II.
  • He was awarded two times the prestigious golden ice axe award.
  • He obtained speed records on Elbrus and Khan Tengri.
  • He has a deep friendship with Simone Moro the famous Italian alpinist who took him on several expeditions after the death of Anatoli Bukreev.
  • Denis Urubko’s style consists of climbing 8000 m peaks in alpine style in small things and on a new route.

What questions were asked in the Q&A session?

  • What are your plans for the future?
  • How do you prepare for the extreme cold on your expeditions?
  • What was the toughest situation on the mountain for you?
  • Why did you become an alpinist?
  • What is the biggest challenge in life?
  • Is Simone Moro your soulmate (from your climbing partners)?
  • How do you prepare mentally for your expeditions?
  • If you had to choose between family and mountains, which one would you choose?

Watch our video to find out what his answers were!

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